Pretty tired but here are a couple of pictures. Assuming Jamestown Distributors gets their act together, I will be laying glass next weekend. Jamestown Distributors messed up my order and did NOT ship the balsa core material. It is on the invoice but all I got was one box from UPS labeled 1 of 1 boxes and no freaking balsa wood that I paid for (this stuff should be in at least two additional boxes).
A section of top skin with core remnants attached.
Some balsa core remnants - this was very slow hot work. A respirator was a must with so much fibergalss fiber blowing around everywhere. A good respirator has already been MONEY WELL SPENT!!!
Sunday, May 5, 2013
Monday, April 29, 2013
Ordered some of the expensive stuff, they said on the phone it "should ship today". I ordered a surplus of material. I didn't want to run out and I have some ideas for the left-overs.
4 sheets of PROBALSA PLUS 3/8", 2' X 4' SHEET
1 gallon of KIWIGRIP NON-SKID GEL WHITE GALLON
I ordered from Jamestown Distributors jamestowndistributors.com
Fabric and resin are on the schedule for tomorrow late afternoon. This evening I should finish a couple of the windows...
4 sheets of PROBALSA PLUS 3/8", 2' X 4' SHEET
1 gallon of KIWIGRIP NON-SKID GEL WHITE
I ordered from Jamestown Distributors jamestowndistributors.com
Fabric and resin are on the schedule for tomorrow late afternoon. This evening I should finish a couple of the windows...
Sunday, April 28, 2013
I was not able to find the locking window trim (or glazing I find it is called). Some things from 1975 just aren't made anymore. So plan "B" went into effect and I had to figure out a way with 2013 materials. Relying on Home Depot, as is so common in our time, I was able to find:
I didn't use the final layer of black silicone because this was a test window - the acrylic in this one was tortured quite a bit in my tool experimentation.
What took the longest was cleaning up the original aluminum frame. I spent over an hour on just that. For this the multitool was very useful with a scraper attachment to get rid of 40 years of various glues and sealants. I then followed up with 120 grit sandpaper by hand and painting.
One problem remains - the black silicone I dont think will adequately obscure the white weather stripping. So a trip to Lowe's is on deck for this AM to find black weather stripping - or white Rustoleum paint to do the frames in white instead. (The frames were originally were not painted any color and that just didn't look good).
Later the next day:
Well I found some other trim and I tried to use it, but it was too thick and there wasnt enough room for the silicone to hold. SO stripping it all down and back to the drawing board. Last nights idea was the best probably. Going to repaint all white and try it with the original white foam (or no foam at all). I have to wait for the silicone to dry fully before I can remove it though.
Stripped down the Port window as well and I have glass ready for it too.
- 1/2" Clear Acrylic
- High Density Foam Weather Stripping
- Silicone II
I didn't use the final layer of black silicone because this was a test window - the acrylic in this one was tortured quite a bit in my tool experimentation.
What took the longest was cleaning up the original aluminum frame. I spent over an hour on just that. For this the multitool was very useful with a scraper attachment to get rid of 40 years of various glues and sealants. I then followed up with 120 grit sandpaper by hand and painting.
One problem remains - the black silicone I dont think will adequately obscure the white weather stripping. So a trip to Lowe's is on deck for this AM to find black weather stripping - or white Rustoleum paint to do the frames in white instead. (The frames were originally were not painted any color and that just didn't look good).
Later the next day:
Well I found some other trim and I tried to use it, but it was too thick and there wasnt enough room for the silicone to hold. SO stripping it all down and back to the drawing board. Last nights idea was the best probably. Going to repaint all white and try it with the original white foam (or no foam at all). I have to wait for the silicone to dry fully before I can remove it though.
Stripped down the Port window as well and I have glass ready for it too.
Thursday, April 18, 2013
I might have a source for epoxy resin that is reasonable. This is a big ticket item and I want to make a decent deal on it so I am being patient. (plus I had to get my taxes out of the way - have to keep the IRS happy!- and I needed to renew my real estate brokers license.)
In the meantime I have been working on the windows and I think I have that figured out pretty well - the only question mark there is finding the right rubber parts to seal them up again. The old stuff had dried out and become hard and crumbly.
Hopefully my major distractions and delays are at an end and this project will pick up steam again. I want to go sailing very very badly!
In the meantime I have been working on the windows and I think I have that figured out pretty well - the only question mark there is finding the right rubber parts to seal them up again. The old stuff had dried out and become hard and crumbly.
Hopefully my major distractions and delays are at an end and this project will pick up steam again. I want to go sailing very very badly!
Monday, April 1, 2013
March 31, 2013
Did my first cuts and made my first mistake. I now know how the boat is put together though. I decided to cut a section in front of the forward hatch, as I knew the boundary between the good and the bad was there somewhere and a loose stanchion base was near there too. (Forgot to take picture I will have to add later).
The boat deck is like this (from top to bottom)
Did my first cuts and made my first mistake. I now know how the boat is put together though. I decided to cut a section in front of the forward hatch, as I knew the boundary between the good and the bad was there somewhere and a loose stanchion base was near there too. (Forgot to take picture I will have to add later).
The boat deck is like this (from top to bottom)
- Gelcoat
- 1/8" Fiberglass
- 3/8" balsa wood in individal squares
- ANOTHER 1/8"? layer of fiberglass cloth
- Cabin roof liner (assuming this is next layer - I didn't cut this far)
My mistake was I cut too deep. I was going slow with the multitool with the half circle blade, but the section wasn't coming loose. So I slowly cut deeper and kept ducking my head in to make sure I wasn't coming through the cabin roof. I had already gone below the 1/4" which I suspected was the maximum depth of the top skin, so I finally resorted to a wrecking bar to pry up the top layer -pretty much destroing that in the process I then could see what was going on, and that I had cut through the second layer of fiberglass that I didn't know was there.
From my probing through that screw hole earlier in another section that second layer wasn't supposed to be there, so now I have to proceed more cautiously. I destroyed a foot or so of top skin, but it was pretty ratty anyway. I think now I may just trash all of the old top skin now as it is full of screw holes and doesn't come up very well. I am going to apply a Kiwi Grip coating anyway so structure is my primary concern. Some of the core I removed was like little rotten sponges, but a lot more of it was still very good too - so I at least did define that one boundary...
I still have some leads to run down on local fiberglass suppliers. This stage will hold me up for a while. It is going to take some time to assemble all of the needed materials (and knowledge). So the deck is taking a back seat to other things for a few weeks.
I did fire up my shop vac to pump out a bunch of rain water which had accumulated below decks and I now have the boat under tarps to keep out the weather. I should have done this earlier, but the open deck skin makes it mandatory.
While I am getting materials I have interior painting and electrical rewiring to keep me busy. I really need to get the bilge pumps online again. These might be things I can do after work this week...
Wednesday, March 27, 2013
3-27-13 An Hour With The Sander
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| Decided to try out the palm sander against the witches - the witches lost: |
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| All the little holes are where the silly wood lattice/walkway was mounted (the holes had been calked at least) |
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| The bow is solid as a rock. It would appear to be topped with 1/4" solid glass like the edges. Happily nothing structural needs to be done here. |
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| Maybe I get sit in here in a month or two? |
March 26, 2013 Still Figuring Out A Plan
- The sides of the upper deck where the windows are is made of two 1/8" thick layers of solid fiberglass - the cabin roof inner and the hull/deck exterior skin.
- The perimeter of the top core/deck is 1/4" thick - I think the central area is thinner because it feels too easy to deflect to be 1/4" thick. There are no fittings to pull to see.
- The central "spine" of the deck is much harder (maybe this is 1/4"?)
- The mast step is solid fiberglass.
- The hardware is all thru-bolted with stainless steel fasteners. No screws at all (except of course for the crappy work someone else did later)
- The upper and lower halves of the hull are fiber glassed together to be one piece. No screws at all.
I pulled one of the windows from the side - these will be easy to fix. The windows are acrylic tinted in 1970's purple. Good for patterns so I can make new ones. They are built very simply with an extruded aluminum frame formed to shape with silicone holding the plastic in place and some rubber gasket material tucked between there and the aluminum frame to weatherstrip the unit. Then the whole thing just screws in. Which is good, because these windows are not a standard shape and cannot be easily replaced.
I think I have identified the areas where I am going to cut. Going to put some more thought into that, and what tools I should use, but I think I will start cutting this weekend - unless I get crazy one afternoon after work. I have to know what the space is between the hull layers before I can order anything. I have resigned myself to the fact that the only way to know this is to look after I have cut off the top.
The thru bolted hardware is also a problem - I cant get to the nuts without cutting something...
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